The Oatman Highway, Route 66, makes its lonesome trek from Kingman through the Mojave Desert. A gray ribbon shooting up through dusty sky toward the Black Mountains and low sun. Eroded hills and ramshackle structures whiz by as you roll along this narrow and rugged layer of asphalt. Rough edges meeting packed dirt with little margin between road and wilderness. This is a stark land where mineral laden hills gave way to rugged settlement amid sculpted erosion. Absent are the saguaros, prickly pear and greenery of the Sonora. The stretch is lonely, desolate and real. And you kind of love it.
As wind battered Black Mountains roll into sight, Cool Springs Station and Cabins comes into view. You pull up, stretch your legs and survey the surroundings.
Under a wind beaten tarp sit weathered gentleman taking in the incessant wind drafting down from the Black Mountains. The wildly flapping flags point to that ever winding and notorious route up Gold Hill Grade to Sitgreaves Pass. The afternoon beams shine on heavy beards and sun cooked cheeks. One remarks he's never possessed a plastic card in his life. Drops of moisture fling off a grinding wheel some yards away. Another says the flowing water here is a luxury not taken for granted; he's accustomed to hauling water from 20 miles away. One is grinding stones and minerals collected in the desert as the others watch. You know you've seen the first one sitting, smiling, waving in the sun when you passed through before. He's been here for two years, enjoying this space, not seeming to mind the Mojave sun on his face.
The wind is ever present, beating that Route 66 flag to death. Westward you get a glimpse of the climb to come as the road winds and disappears around the mountain. The jewelry's well-crafted, with care, and reasonably priced. The conversation's free.
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