Skip to main content

Gateway to the Black Mountains: Cool Springs Station and Cabins

The Oatman Highway, Route 66, makes its lonesome trek from Kingman through the Mojave Desert. A gray ribbon shooting up through dusty sky toward the Black Mountains and low sun. Eroded hills and ramshackle structures whiz by as you roll along this narrow and rugged layer of asphalt. Rough edges meeting packed dirt with little margin between road and wilderness. This is a stark land where mineral laden hills gave way to rugged settlement amid sculpted erosion. Absent are the saguaros, prickly pear and greenery of the Sonora. The stretch is lonely, desolate and real. And you kind of love it. 


As wind battered Black Mountains roll into sight, Cool Springs Station and Cabins comes into view. You pull up, stretch your legs and survey the surroundings. 

Under a wind beaten tarp sit weathered gentleman taking in the incessant wind drafting down from the Black Mountains. The wildly flapping flags point to that ever winding and notorious route up Gold Hill Grade to Sitgreaves Pass. The afternoon beams shine on heavy beards and sun cooked cheeks. One remarks he's never possessed a plastic card in his life. Drops of moisture fling off a grinding wheel some yards away. Another says the flowing water here is a luxury not taken for granted; he's accustomed to hauling water from 20 miles away. One is grinding stones and minerals collected in the desert as the others watch. You know you've seen the first one sitting, smiling, waving in the sun when you passed through before. He's been here for two years, enjoying this space, not seeming to mind the Mojave sun on his face.

The wind is ever present, beating that Route 66 flag to death. Westward you get a glimpse of the climb to come as the road winds and disappears around the mountain. The jewelry's well-crafted, with care, and reasonably priced. The conversation's free.


Comments

Popular posts from this blog

Gold King Mansion of the Hualapai Mountains: "Quite a Place."

The once ornate Gold King Mansion lies all but forgotten in the Hualapai Mountains south of Kingman. The concrete structure, with its unusual poured concrete ceiling, fireplace and elegant molding, dates back to 1929, having outlasted less permanent mining structures. Now remote, the Mansion was once connected to a county highway by a "splendid road," frequented by Cadillac. The mining corp owner's secretary rode shotgun (literally) as they carried the miners' payroll from LA. Today, the Mansion is accessible by the rugged Moss Wash OHV Trail or by hiking 1.5 mi. in from Blake Ranch Road (an "easy dirt road", partially unpaved, a high-clearance vehicle is recommended; four-wheel drive not necessary in good weather, per Arizona Highways "Arizona Ghost Towns"). In its day, the Mansion boasted copper screens on the windows and a fishing pond. When the mining corp struck a 3-foot-wide by 11-foot-long lead and gold vein in 1929, ...

Make-A-Wish Founder, Frank Shankwitz, Learned About Heroism Growing Up in Seligman, Arizona on Route 66

Sometimes, or perhaps, always, great and far reaching human kindness starts on a smaller yet no less significant scale. In the case of the Make-A-Wish Foundation, it arguably might not exist but for it's Founder, Frank Shankwitz's experience growing up on Route 66 in Seligman, Arizona. By age 10, Shankwitz had spent years on the road, homeless, with his mother who had kidnapped him. The kindness and mentorship he received working as a dishwasher at Juan Delgadillo's Snow Cap Drive-In set him on a path of philanthropy and success in the air force, as an Arizona Highway Patrol motorcycle officer and homicide detective. Shankwitz has described Delgadillo, who passed in 2004, as a stand in father figure. In several interviews he has shared how Delgadillo taught him the then novel idea of "turning negatives into positives." When Shankwitz's mother abandoned him in Seligman at age 12, Delgadillo arranged for him to live with a local woman (whom he descri...

Arizona Highways Scenic Drive: From Kingman to Meadview and Pearce Ferry: Gateway to the Grand Canyon

There's something mysterious about standing at the far West end of the Grand Canyon, where canyon walls give way to shores and you know that with a bit of ingenuity, humans have been crossing the Colorado here for centuries. You feel you've somehow cheated the Canyon; you've driven far enough to circumnavigate it. Looking upstream, you know how much grander those colorful cliffs will become. Here, at Pearce Ferry, you find a quiet corner of the state seldom seen by visitors who aren't disembarking a raft or occasionally casting a line in the winding waters. We took an Arizona Highways suggested road trip from Kingman to Pearce Ferry via Stockton Hill Road. The Colorado River emerges from the West end of the Grand Canyon at Pearce Ferry en route to Lake Mead. A landing for Canyon rafters, it was a historic river crossing for Mormon settlers and Native Americans. On the way, you pass an incredibly dense joshua tree forest with a unique beauty (espe...